After walking nearly 20 kilometers through the vibrant streets of Oaxaca, I treated myself to a much-needed shower and nap before preparing for what would become a truly unforgettable evening. The day had already been overwhelming in the best way—the Guelaguetza was a cultural spectacle like no other. Seas of people dressed in traditional attire, women with long, thick braids flowing down their backs, danced with pride, showcasing Oaxacan textiles and heritage. I loved it… although, true to my quiet nature, I found the density of the crowds a bit much.

As I navigated the packed streets—lined with wooden stools claimed by eager spectators securing spots for the grand défilé—I managed to catch part of the procession just as I arrived at Criollo.
But getting there was its own adventure. I had to shift my reservation due to taxi chaos, but fortune smiled on me: my driver was charming and witty, and offered me a spontaneous detour—a tour of the mountains to avoid the crowds. We skirted around the city in the night, giving me a breathtaking view of Oaxaca aglow. He told me stories of how these once barren lands transformed into a pulsing extension of the city. I was reminded how layered this place is, each neighborhood with its own name, its own character. I’m staying in San Felipe del Agua—quiet, green, and dotted with unexpected gems: artisanal cafés and intimate restaurants hiding in plain sight. It’s only day one, and I already feel like I could write a book.

Earlier that afternoon, in the lull between the Guelaguetza intensity and my dinner plans, I took the advice of a new friend and followed their recommendation to a vegan spot that served barbacoa de setas—wild mushroom barbacoa tacos. I wasn’t prepared for how good they would be. Earthy, smoky, deeply spiced, and satisfyingly savory, the mushrooms were in small pieces and marinated to perfection. Every bite felt indulgent, as if I were eating something rich and meaty, but entirely plant-based. It was so memorable that even as I made my way to Criollo, I wasn’t yet ready to let go of the flavor. That lunch was a quiet revelation—and a reminder that Oaxaca’s culinary genius isn’t limited to fine dining.

Criollo (https://criollo.com.mx)
This was my first gourmet stop, and what a way to begin. Criollo offered an 8-course tasting menu for July, and every bite was an ode to Oaxacan flavors, reimagined with creativity and elegance. (Full menu image attached.)
The staff were warm and attentive. I was greeted with an herbal infusion of pablo azul and lavender, refreshing and gently aromatic—a delicate prelude. Homemade blue and white corn tortillas were served with a salsa de árbol. Spicy, but not quite the fiery kick I’m used to from my husband, the self-proclaimed Salsa King.
The first two dishes arrived together, and I was instructed to begin with the tostada of mushroom salpicón, then move on to the sweet molote of plantain filled with Juchiteco cheese. Sublime. I savored each bite slowly, letting the complexity unfold. I paired it all with a mezcal cocktail infused with ginger and a local mint-like herb, rimmed with ant salt—recommended by my server and deeply memorable. I resisted the urge to try them all (mezcal does have a tendency to erase memories!).
Next was a showstopper: green beans in a nogada sauce topped with XO, candied nuts, and ikura (fish roe) that popped delicately in the mouth. I wanted to lick the plate—no shame.
Every dish that followed continued to delight. The rajas tamal in romesco quintonil was a warm hug of flavor. The catch of the day (from Puerto Ángel!) was delicately prepared, but what stole my heart was the enmolada: a tortilla wrapped in hoja santa, filled with tender short ribs, bathed in mole negro with apple purée. I almost cried from happiness.
Then came dessert. The pre-dessert, an atole of grain with lemon tea and chilacayota noodles, wasn’t my favorite—too grainy for my taste. But the final sweet course made up for it entirely: a pineapple tamal with passion fruit curd, yogurt ice cream, and cacao nibs. Heavenly.
Reflections
This was no ordinary dinner—it was a sensory journey, a celebration of textures, tradition, and technique. I left stuffed, satisfied, and deeply grateful, especially as I dined in honor of my baby sister’s birthday.
Now off to bed early, belly full and heart light—ready for whatever Day 3 in Oaxaca has in store.