Tren Maya from Bacalar to Cancún
The Tren Maya is a relatively recent addition to Mexico’s railway network, but it represents one of the major infrastructure achievements of the previous federal government. Conceived to connect the states of the Yucatán Peninsula and the southeast of Mexico, its purpose goes beyond simply moving people from one destination to another. The railway was designed to make travel between communities, cities and archaeological sites easier and more accessible, while bringing tourism and economic opportunities to regions that have historically been less connected. Its route stretches across the southeastern states of Mexico, linking destinations in Chiapas, Tabasco, Campeche, Yucatán and Quintana Roo, with stops near some of the country’s most extraordinary Maya archaeological sites.
After spending a few days on my own in Bacalar, it was time to begin the journey back toward Cancún and, this time, I would do it by way of the Tren Maya.
The lobby contained advertisements for La Gran Guía del Tren Maya, a guide available as a free download in Spanish. Naturally, I downloaded it for the ride. It turned out to be the perfect companion, describing each stop along the route and highlighting the important Maya sites that can be visited from the various stations
As I read through it, I found myself already dreaming about another trip. One day, I would love to start in Palenque, Chiapas, and make my way through this extraordinary territory by train, stopping at stations and archaeological sites I have never visited before. Maya history fascinates me, but its mythology captivates me even more. There is something about discovering these ancient places while learning the stories, beliefs and cosmology that shaped the people who lived there that feels particularly compelling.
On the platform, I watched the train pull into the station.
It was sleek, modern and surprisingly impressive. More modern than our rather sad O-Train back home, the Tren Maya is built around technology, comfort and connectivity.
I can attest to the comfort part.
And as I watched it arrive, I couldn’t help thinking that this was more than simply a train ride. It was a different way of seeing Mexico, one station at a time.
As I watched the scenery zoom by, at times reaching speeds of 140 km/hour, I arrived in Cancún a little over four hours later. By car, the same journey would have taken roughly six hours. There is something wonderfully satisfying about watching the landscape roll past while someone else does the driving.
By the time I arrived, it was past 10 p.m., and the airport shuttle to the hotel was no longer running. And honestly, that suited me just fine. Rather than taking one shuttle and then potentially waiting another half hour for the hotel shuttle, I paid the 300 pesos for a taxi. One was assigned to me immediately, he carried my heavy suitcase into the car as well as a good conversation on the way to the hotel.
Check-in was quick and friendly. They offered to bring my heavy luggage up to my room, but I could manage it myself. I bid them good night and headed upstairs.
And then hunger struck.
I had emptied the fridge that morning, turning its contents into a protein-filled lunch, but that meal was now a distant memory. The few nuts and chicharrón I had packed had done their best, but they were never going to win this battle
Besides, I needed one last excuse to fill my soul with Mexican food before heading home.
Taquería Los Chachalacos was still delivering late into the night and was known for its tacos al pastor. I wanted something delicious but relatively light, so I ordered two tacos al pastor and a tortilla soup.
The tacos arrived gloriously unapologetic: thin slices of juicy, caramelized pork piled onto warm little corn tortillas, crowned with fresh onion, cilantro and a touch of pineapple. Smoky, salty, sweet and just a little spicy, they had exactly the kind of irresistible al pastor flavour that makes you realize two tacos was an optimistic number.
And then there was the tortilla soup.
Warm, fragrant broth carrying that unmistakable roasted-tomato depth, scattered with crisp tortilla strips that softened just enough as they soaked up the soup. A little cheese, a little avocado, perhaps a whisper of chile, and suddenly this was no longer simply a late-night meal. It was comfort in a bowl.
My almost final Mexican meal before flying home.
At least, that was the plan since I had called ahead at Casa Bea in Puerto Juárez for lunch the next day. They confirmed having Chile relleno de queso Oaxaca and were known for their pulpo! I was already salivating myself to sleep in my comfy hotel bed with AC and total darkness.
